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The content: On this page you can see
photos of our expedition to Khan Tengri in summer 2005
and a few more photos we took in Turkistan, an important
city of Muslim pilgrimage.
Acknowledgement: The expedition presented
here would not have been possible without our main sponsor
Mountex,
Hungary's leading out-door retailer. We also thank Zoltán
Gulyás (picture below), our climbing-mate, who invested
immense energies in the project, and Irene Toksabayeva,
a Kazakh friend who provided us with some very useful
local information. |
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Right: Members of the expedition, about to leave Karkara
basecamp for the glacier.
Below: the view from the helicopter: |
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Right: This is the way to take photos out of a MI-8
Russian helicopter at 4000 m altitude - simple, isn't
it? |
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Left: crouching
down and holding packages to the "earth" while the
helicopter leaves, generating a huge blast.
Below: this and many other jumps are needed to cross the glacier. |
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Above: Camp 1 (4400m) - below (some 400 altitude meters
lower) the North Inylchek Glacier.
Right: on the way between camp 1 and camp
2, this was the most "horizontal" spot and thus
the only suitable place to pack and eat. Anything else
was just more steep.
Below: the queue on the way from camp 1 to camp 2. |
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Right: photo-time on the way from camp 1 to camp 2.
As the spot is still as steep as it was before (picture
above), me, the backpac and basically anything that could
possibly fall down had to be fixed to the rope.
Below: picturesque background for a lunch in camp 2 (5500m). |
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Above: the way from camp 2 (small dots on the
snow in the middle of the picture) to camp 3. Below the North
Inylchek Glacier.
Below: some more technical climbing on the way to camp 3. |
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Right: part of the group on peak Chapayev
(6100m). This is a "smaller" peak we had to
climb on our way to camp 3.
Below: Camp 3 (5900m). Left from the ridge is Kazakhstan,
right from the ridge is Kyrgyzstan and ahead, along the
ridge, is the way up to peak Khan Tengri. |
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Above: Dani and me at a traverse at 6800m altitude
at 5pm. This is how far I got - here I turned back, to
make sure I would reach camp 3 by sunset. Dani went ahead,
summited around 7pm and returned to camp 3 around midnight.
On the same day, still before Dani, also Péter and Gyuri
summited Khan Tengri. This was the first time that Hungarians
climbed Khan Tengri from the North (there have been successful
Hungarian expeditions from the South).
Below: crossing the glacier again on the way back to
the basecamp. |
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Above: the mosque of Turkistan - Kazakhstan's
most important Muslim monument.
Below: the pride of superb Hungarian engineering: a thirty
(or more) year-old Ikarus bus at the Turkistan bus terminal. |
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| Left and right: Zoli and Dani with their new hats, inspired
by Kazakh traditions. |
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Remarks to the content: This page is
currently under construction. So far, you can see the
photos and a short explanation to each of them. In the
upcoming weeks I will be filling in more text, describing
the entire story. For now, you can find the entire story
(in Hungarian) on the website
of Péter (one of the participants of the expedition)
and on szikla.hu
(a Hungarian website dedicated to mountain climbing),
as well as the
story in Hungarian with illustrations and a separate
picture
gallery on the website of Mountex, our sponsor. You
can also find an on-line gallery with a huge amount of
photos (with short remarks in English to each picture)
on the website
of Dani (another participant of the expedition). Further
related information (in English and Russian) can be found
on the website
of the Kantengri company, the main tour operator in
the region. I can also recommend the pictures of another
Hungarian expedition on the website
of Leto and friends (with short remarks in Hungarian
to each picture) who came to Khan-Tengri some two weeks
after us and, for those who understand Romanian, the website
of some Romanian friends we met on the mountain. If
you want to see the dramatic part, on the website
of channel4 you find a movie (click the link under
the image) showing what happened to "our" helicopter
3 days after it took us back from the glacier.
Technical remarks: the pictures presented
here are originally on slides. Most of them have not be
scanned with a real slide scanner (but only with a simple
desktop scanner), therefore the quality of the digital
images is not the best. If you want to see the real thing,
come to see one of my slide shows or just simply donate
me a professional slide scanner :-)
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